where can i find plans to build a jig for cutting crown moulding on a compound miter saw
where can i find plans to build a jig for cutting crown moulding on a
compound miter saw
try the old yankee workshop, you might find a link there
http://qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/app.detail/params.item.V23626?cm_re=PAGE-_-PROMOTIONS-_-12:V23626
Don't know if you are familiar with QVC but they demonstrate this kit and
it is fantastic. Cuts crown molding to fit perfect on out of square
corners and at any angle you desire.
I use compound miter cut tables to make perfect miter cuts. You
measure the corner, either inside corner, angle corner or outside corner
with an angle measure, For example a square corner might be 89.52
degrees, then go to the tables for square inside corner or outside corner
which ever it is . The tables give the exact saw settings. The tables
are on sold on a per sheet basis I think around $2 post paid. What you
can do then is lay the moulding flat on the saw downside & set the miter to a chart angle & set the saw to a set tilt angle & cut a perfect miter. I buy mine here but there are others just as good. http://compoundmiter.com/chart.html If you do miter cuts using these tables they will always come out perfect on first try. Those coping saw corners look bad & are troublesome to make expecially with Oak or a hard wood that you varnish stain & no filler is allowed. Lowes sells an angle measure with a book of tables for around $35. I dont like the thing its so heavy & hard to set & understand especially on inside corners. Ive tried it & dont like it.
The jig is already on ur saw. It is called the degree scale.
DeWalt saws have arrows at 33.9 degrees, etc. (don't do residential
anymore, so I can not remember the numbers). You hold the crown vertically
against the fence, put the miter on 45 degrees & the bevel on whichever
arrow/tit works for that size molding. That is if ur going to cope it, of
course, which is the right way to do it.
The other way is to 'bed' the molding on the miter saw base & fence, upside down, & set both angles to 45. The base is the ceiling & the fence is the wall. Cut it so that the point of the miter cut is on the back of the molding, like an inside corner, then use the profile as a guide to cope it back the other way. You can clamp a board to the base so that every piece sits the same way when you cut it. The reason that coping is better is because wood contracts longitudinally. If you just 45 both pieces, both of them will contract away from each other in winter. Coping allows one board to pass behind the other, so when it contracts, it doesn't leave any gap. That reduces the contraction gap by half. (only one board shrinks away from the other) Edit: When bedding the molding, it may not sit equally on the base & the fence. It just depends on the style of molding. Some sit more on the wall than the ceiling. Just cut a one foot piece off & hold it on the saw & see how the flats on the back sit. They should both be sitting flat on their surfaces. (it is the 1/2'' or so flat part that touches the wall or ceiling). Use that same one foot piece to mark a straight line on the wall, too. Set it in one corner like it is going to go & mark the bottom of it. Do the same at the other end & snap a chalk line (use blue chalk, not red). The surfaces are never straight or flat, but you want to make ur molding as straight as possible (you don't want it to follow humps & dips in the ceiling.) Nail it to the wall first (a few feet at a time), & then nail it to the ceiling. Don't force it into any 'low' spots (valleys), or you will see a wave when its done. The whole point of crown molding is to hide these valleys, so dont accentuate them by pushing it up into them. Just caulk it & you will never see it.
forget the jig, miter one side of corner, and cope the other,
as the material shrinks (and it will) the crack won't show.
Simplest way i've found is to cut 90 degrees and buy inside and
outside decorative pieces for the corners , you can get ones that are quite
nice .
Cutting & installing crown molding can be very tricky until you
get the hang of it. I don't know of a jig to use. I have always just laid
the crown molding on the saw the same way it will be installed & cut the
45 is for either the inside or outside corners. By this I mean that I
treat the back fence as the ceiling & the base plate as the wall. You will
however need to allow for the ceiling to wall angel because it will
generally be larger than 90 degrees. This is due to the corner finishing process. Of course you can ignore it & treat it as if it were 90 degrees & use Interior/Exterior Vinyl Spackling to fill & shape.where needed.
there are free guides to cutting crown on a compound saw
but there are 2 schools of thought
some say miter the corners ( you cut upside down and backwards )
some say straight cut one side, the miter and cope the return for tight
fool proof mitres ( also known as compression mitres )
google how to cut crown molding and you see what i mean
Lowes of course. :-) actualy, any hardware place. its called a
miter box.
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